Frank Lloyd Wright In Erie, Pennsylvania

As September draws to a close, it occurs to me that many, many stories are left untold from my Labor Day trip to Pennsylvania. Today we will start at the Hagen History Center which serves Erie County, Pa. They have two campuses and we visited the one on Erie’s Millionaire’s Row.

The campus includes two historic mansions, a new building for exhibit space and a historic carriage house which is home to a gift shop and library/reading room. This is where you buy your tickets.

My friend had already been there and was excited for me to see a specific exhibit but she held her cards close. She didn’t show her hand until we were in the room and compared it to throwing me a surprise party.

What was so special?

They have Frank Lloyd Wright’s office.

You read that right. The walls, floors, furniture, typewriters, pencils and protractors. They have it all. It even has a unique smell that I couldn’t quite identify- aged wood, pipe tobacco, and brilliance?

And that remark about this being like a surprise party? This was way better than a party.

This is Frank Lloyd Wright’s San Francisco field office which he used while working on California projects. It was disassembled and sold to a private collector long ago before spending some time behind glass at the Heinz Architectural Center at the Carnegie Museum of Art in Pittsburgh.

Now at the Hagen in Erie, the office is no longer behind glass – you can walk through it! This is his desk! The office is relatively small with room for a desk, two guest chairs and a couch.

Pennsylvania 2025

Those guest chairs, if you want to call them that, look rather unwelcoming to me.

This is the workroom. Notice the windows feature the image of the actual San Francisco view.

Pennsylvania 2025

The view as you enter.

Pennsylvania 2025

The secretary’s typewriter.

Pennsylvania 2025

And her desk with the view.

Pennsylvania 2025

And here’s the man himself keeping a sharp eye on visitors.

Pennsylvania 2025

Walking through this space was near magical and I recommend going to see it if you are a fan of his work. Want to visit? Get more info here.

Also, come back tomorrow and we will have a look at his car!!!! It’s absolutely fabulous.

Fine Arts At Cleveland Downtown Library

When planning a trip, I always look up libraries around my destination. If there’s a Carnegie library or some other interesting building, it automatically makes the list of must sees. Sometimes I stop in anyway because libraries say a lot about the place. In these four walls, it is possible to simply exist. There’s no admission, there’s interesting stuff to see, and the library staff is typically knowledgeable about their community. Plus, there’s a free and clean public restroom! 

The main library in downtown Cleveland has been on my list for a while and there just hasn’t been a good opportunity to go in. That is, until last week! Adam and I revisited the gorgeous Arcade where an important scene was filmed for the new Superman movie. From there, the library was just across the street. 

Park once, visit two things. This is helpful when parking garages cost $15 a pop. 

This library did not disappoint. My friends, the security guard may have momentarily thought us crazy until he realized we’re just nerds. He handed us a guided walking tour and sent us on our way. But first, I had to admire this light!!

Look! The shade is a globe! Where can I get one of these for my house? 

The downtown library consists of the original building and the Louis Stokes Wing which is accessible via an underground tunnel. We explored the new building some but thought the real show stopper was the main library which opened just over a century ago in May 1925. 

The building features a number of architectural styles. Inside, Italian marble, vaulted ceilings and grand staircases are only upstaged by the paintings of historical and mythological figures.. It’s five stories and cost about $5 million to build in those glorious years of prosperity we call the Roaring Twenties. 

I read somewhere that times were tough for the library during the Depression just as they were for everyone else. President Roosevelt’s Public Works programs sent employees to clean, paint, make building repairs and perform other chores for a while. During that time, some federally funded art was given to the library via paintings and murals that remain today. Can we pause for a moment and recognize the value of funding art for public buildings? Putting to work starving artists while preserving art of the period and improving public spaces is a real gift.

We visited the Arcade last year and strolled through the beautiful reading garden but didn’t make it inside.  Incidentally, the reading garden is named for Linda Anne Eastman who was the first woman to head a major U.S. city library system and she was a pioneer in modern libraries who was once President of the American Library Association. When did she do that? She was the head librarian of the Cleveland library system from 1918 to 1938. She raised money to build this library and oversaw its construction. 

What. A. Rock. Star. 

And honestly, I could write an entire story about her accomplishments. But I digress. 

The library has an enormous collection of books as well as all manner of electronic items, programs for all ages, gallery space, a place for technology education and an impressive makerspace complete with 3D printers, laser fabrication and music and video production tools. 

They have done a magnificent job keeping up with the times. Plus, the library system has 27 branches as well as the Ohio Library for the Blind and Physically Disabled. 

Sit tight and come back. I still have to tell you about their collection of Superman memorabilia and artifacts. He’s from Cleveland, you know!

Doors

I have a thing for doors. These doors are the entrance to a Philadelphia restaurant called Buddakan. They’re pretty fabulous, aren’t they?

Garfield Memorial

High on a hill overlooking Cleveland’s famed Lake View Cemetery is a memorial to President James A. Garfield.

Ohio is sometimes called the Mother of Presidents because seven US Presidents were born here including Garfield who was our twentieth. Born in poverty and in a log cabin in northeastern Ohio, Garfield was a lawyer, preacher, Civil War general, US Senator and member of the US House of Representatives.

His was a life of service and he used his power to advocate for civil rights for African Americans, to support an educated electorate and to fight corruption in the postal service. He was a pretty progressive guy for the day in 1881 and even for modern times.

In case you don’t remember your history, an assassin fired and struck Garfield twice – one bullet caused a minor wound to his arm and another went through his back, shattering a rib and embedding in his abdomen. He died months later after unsanitary methods employed by his doctors caused infection to develop and grow. 

He was interred in another location in this cemetery until his memorial was completed about nine years later and his body was moved. Our tour guide said that Garfield’s wife Lucretia was instrumental in choosing the location for the memorial and in planning its design. She chose the highest point in the cemetery, giving her husband, the President, the highest resting place in the cemetery as he had once held the highest office in the land.

You ascend twenty steps to enter the heavy front doors. A larger than life statue of the twentieth president stands beneath an impressive light fixture with twenty bulbs. Awe inspiring stained glass windows represent each of the original thirteen colonies and his home state of Ohio. Each of these windows features a woman who is holding something that represents that state in her outstretched hands.

Spiral stairs give access to the crypt where Garfield’s flag draped casket sits next to that of his wife. Go up stairs to an interior balcony that looks down on the rotunda and also get a better view of the dome above. One more flight of stairs up will give you access to an exterior balcony with a sweeping view of the cemetery and downtown off in the distance. 

This memorial is extraordinary both in appearance and in atmosphere. It feels sacred. At first glance, you might mistake this space for a church and the women of those windows as angels. 

You can tell that Lucretia Garfield and whoever designed this memorial wanted to honor the man and his place in history while emphasizing the weight and importance of the US Government. Reverence and respect were paid here.

I hated to leave this place and have thought often about our time there. Garfield was both preacher and politician. He fought for what was right and died because of some things that were wrong with his world. I can’t help but wonder how our country might have improved and grown had he served his entire term rather than a few short months. Would the civil rights movement have advanced more? Would we be less tolerant of the lies of corrupt politicians?

If you’re in Cleveland, Lake View Cemetery is home to this memorial and to the graves of many other famous people. We didn’t get to explore here long but it was one of my favorite things in Cleveland. Learn more here!

A Stroll Through The Arcade

It was called Cleveland’s Crystal Palace when it opened in 1890. As one of America’s first indoor shopping centers, the Arcade was unlike anything ever seen in that area of the country. It didn’t come cheap either. The $875,000 price tag was funded by some of the country’s best known millionaires including John D. Rockefeller and Steven V. Harkness.

The tract of land was chosen specifically to create an indoor commercial passageway between two of the city’s most important thoroughfares – Euclid and Superior.

Today, it’s home to boutique shops, a luxury spa, restaurants, an art gallery and the Hyatt Regency Hotel.

It eventually fell into disrepair and there was fear that the wrecking ball would be near. Luckily, this gorgeous landmark lived to see another century when a $60 million renovation was completed in 2001, securing its place in Cleveland architectural history hopefully for many centuries to come. 

We visited early Saturday morning, hoping to catch it before it got busy. I’m glad we did because we mostly had it to ourselves to roam around and explore the beauty of it all. It was peaceful and looking up at the glass ceiling was awe inspiring. 

I had the feeling that if I turned my head quickly enough I might catch a glimpse of a Victorian couple – him in a seersucker suit and her in a long white dress with puffy sleeves – strolling from one shop to the next. I never did see them but I bet they were near.

Want to visit or just learn more? Click here!

Marietta Castle

It seems that I have failed to tell you about The Castle in Marietta, Ohio. This is an oversight that requires correction. I encountered this picture last night and thought it was just the prettiest combination of light, shadow and colors.

Come back tomorrow for the full scoop about this beautiful old home.